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Biotechnology in Cosmetics: Revolutionizing Active Ingredient Development

Writer's picture: Chloe VoChloe Vo

Updated: May 15, 2023

Have you ever wondered what goes into the products that make us look and feel beautiful? From creams and serums to makeup and hair products, the cosmetics industry is built on the power of active ingredients. Traditionally, these ingredients were developed through a combination of chemical synthesis and natural extraction, but in recent years, a new approach has emerged: biotechnology. Biotechnology involves using living organisms or their components to create or modify products, and it has revolutionized the development of active ingredients in cosmetics. In this post, we'll explore the role of biotechnology in cosmetics and its impact on the industry, including some of the challenges it presents.


WHAT IS BIOTECHNOLOGY?


Biotechnology is defined as the use of living organisms or biological processes to develop specific products or solutions through fermentative processes and/or genetic engineering techniques. In cosmetics, biotechnology is used to create active ingredients that are more effective, safer, and more sustainable than traditional alternatives.


Active ingredients derived from biotechnology have become increasingly popular in cosmetics, with a wide range of options available for different applications. Some examples of these ingredients include hyaluronic acid, kojic acid, resveratrol, and enzymes, which are commonly used in anti-aging products for the skin. Other biotech-derived ingredients that are now commonly found in cosmetics and aesthetic medicines include growth factors, peptides, stem cells, and algae.


BENEFITS OF BIOTECHNOLOGY IN COSMETICS


The very first benefit of biotechnology is to enhance the efficiency of active ingredients that can penetrate the skin more deeply and provide longer-lasting results. For example, biotech-derived liposomes can be used to enhance the delivery of active ingredients to the target concerns of skin. Liposomes are microscopic vesicles that can encapsulate active ingredients, protecting them from degradation and enhancing their absorption into the skin. For example, Cosme Decorte claims that their product, "Moisture Liposome Serum," can maintain high-quality moisture and protect the skin from dryness, roughness, and other issues due to the advanced scientific concept of "liposomes".

Figure B1.1. Moisture Liposome Serum from Decorté

Figure B1.1. Moisture Liposome Serum from Decorté

Biotechnology also offers improved safety, as many biotechnology-derived active ingredients are less likely to cause irritation or allergic reactions than their traditional counterparts. For example, acetyl hexapeptide-1 is a biotechnology-derived peptide that has the primary function of stimulating the production of collagen and slowing down the signs of aging. This peptide is less likely to cause irritation or allergic reactions than traditional collagen-boosting ingredients because it works by signaling the body to produce more collagen, rather than directly adding collagen to the skin. The sample product named "Intensive Peptide Face Lift Serum" from Aus Medic Co contains Munapsys (Acetyl Hexapeptide-1) for claiming the appearance improvement of fine lines and expression wrinkles.

Figure B1.2. Intensive Peptide Face Lift Serum from Aus Medic Co

Finally, biotechnology can contribute to a more sustainable cosmetics industry by reducing waste, improving ingredient sourcing, and limiting animal testing. Contributing to a more sustainable cosmetics industry through the use of biodegradable and renewable ingredients, many biotechnology-derived ingredients are produced using renewable resources such as plant materials or microorganisms. This can help to reduce the environmental impact of the cosmetics industry by reducing waste and reliance on fossil fuels.


In short, biotechnology has the potential to make the cosmetics industry more sustainable by reducing waste, improving ingredient sourcing, and decreasing animal testing.


BIOTECHNOLOGY APPROACHES FOR ACTIVE INGREDIENT DEVELOPMENT:

Figure B1.3. Advanced Biotechnology in Cosmetics

To obtain active ingredients for cosmetics, several biotechnology approaches such as genetic engineering, fermentation, plant cell culture, etc, have been used.


The first one is genetic engineering, evolving the modifications of an organism’s DNA to produce a specific trait. For example, synthetic melanin is a type of active ingredient used in sunscreens that mimics the natural pigment melanin found in our skin. Melanin is responsible for protecting our skin from UV radiation by absorbing and scattering harmful rays. Synthetic melanin works similarly by absorbing and scattering UV radiation, offering protection against sun damage. For example, some sunscreen product combines synthetic melanin with other active ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to provide broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection. Therefore, the addition of synthetic melanin helps to further enhance the sun protection offered by the product and promote overall skin health.


Fermentation is another method used in the development of active ingredients, where microorganisms such as bacteria, yeast, and fungi are used to produce specific substances. For example, beta-glucan is a natural polysaccharide that can soothe and calm irritated skin, reduces redness, and promotes healing. It also can attract and retain moisture, keeping skin hydrated. This can be found in the biological pathways of many different types of fungi and bacteria; due to its anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties on the skin, beta-glucan is mass-produced through the fermentation of those fungal and bacterial species. Beta-glucan is found in skincare and hair care products such as moisturizers, serums, and shampoos.


Plant cell culture is also an essential biotechnology method in active ingredient development. It involves growing plant cells in a lab to produce active ingredients that can be harvested and processed to be used in cosmetics. This method enables the production of ingredients that may be difficult or impossible to obtain from natural sources. For example, plant stem cells can be grown in the lab to produce active ingredients that promote skin regeneration and reduce the signs of aging.


BIOTECHNOLOGY - SUCH A GOOD TOOL IN COSMETICS!


Biotechnology is changing the way we think about active ingredient development in cosmetics, offering new possibilities for efficacy, safety, and sustainability. As the industry continues to evolve, we can expect to see more and more biotechnologically-derived active ingredients making their way into our favorite beauty products. By staying informed and engaged with this exciting field, we can help to shape the future of the cosmetics industry for the better.


Chloe.


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