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Setting the Bar: Understanding International Cosmetic Standards

Writer's picture: Chloe VoChloe Vo

Updated: May 15, 2023

Active ingredients are essential components of cosmetic products, providing a wide range of benefits such as moisturization, anti-aging, sun protection, and among others. However, not all active ingredients are created in a similar manner, and the safety and efficiency of these ingredients can vary widely depending on their concentration, purity, and other factors. To help ensure the safety and effectiveness of cosmetic products, various standards have been recognized for active ingredients, including COSMOS, ECOCERT, EWG, HALAL, and more.


COSMOS:


COSMOS, short for Cosmetic Organic and Natural Standard, is a globally recognized standard for organic and natural cosmetics. The Cosmos standard for cosmetics certification was developed by several European organizations, including the Soil Association, Ecocert, and BDIH.

To be labeled with the COSMOS logo, every single step from compositions to manufacturing processing and packaging is required to be controlled and then verified by the COSMOS team. When it comes to requirements for beauty care products for being COSMOS ORGANIC certification, here are some of the key points:

  • Use of natural and organic ingredients: Cosmetics that are COSMOS-certified must use natural and organic ingredients. Specifically, in a cosmetic product:

  • At least 95% of the ingredients be from natural origin

  • At least 20% of the ingredients be organic or 10% for rinse-off products

Synthetic ingredients are allowed in limited quantities, but only if they are not harmful to human health and the environment

  • Avoidance of harmful chemicals: Cosmetics that are COSMOS-certified must not contain certain chemicals that are known to be harmful to human health or the environment, for example, parabens, phthalates, and synthetic fragrances.

  • Quality control procedures: Manufacturers must have strict quality control procedures in place to ensure the consistency and purity of their products. This includes regular testing of ingredients and finished products for contaminants and impurities.

  • Packaging and waste minimization: Manufacturers must take steps to minimize waste and reduce the environmental impact of their packaging. This includes using recyclable or biodegradable materials wherever possible.

  • Transparency in labeling and marketing: Manufacturers must provide clear and accurate information about their products, including a full list of ingredients and any claims made about their efficacy.

Double-check the link for more information: https://www.cosmos-standard.org/en/


ECOCERT


ECOCERT is a French-based certification body that specializes in natural and organic certification of products that was founded in France in 1991. It offers certifications for a wide range of products, including cosmetics, textiles, and food products. Ecocert is accredited by various international organizations, such as the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) and the European Union.

In the context of cosmetics, the Ecocert standard for certification is designed to ensure that products are made with natural and organic ingredients and that they meet certain requirements for sustainability and social responsibility. Here are some of the key requirements for cosmetics to be certified by Ecocert:

  • Use of natural and organic ingredients: Cosmetics that are certified by Ecocert must use natural and organic ingredients. Synthetic ingredients are allowed in limited quantities, but only if they are not harmful to human health or the environment. Specifically, ECOCERT enables to display of the mention of “Natural detergents” with 2 labeling levels:

  • in a cosmetic product for the label Natural detergents:

    • All the ingredients from natural origin

    • Maximum 5% of synthetic ingredients among the restrictive list

    • No environmental risky statement is authorized on the product

    • in a cosmetic product for the label Natural detergents made with Organic

      • At least 95% of the ingredients be from natural origin

      • At least 10% of the ingredients be organic

      • No risky statement is authorized on the product

  • Avoidance of harmful chemicals: Cosmetics that are certified by Ecocert must not contain certain chemicals that are known to be harmful to human health or the environment, such as parabens, phthalates, and synthetic fragrances.

  • Social responsibility: Manufacturers must meet certain requirements for social responsibility, such as fair labor practices, respect for human rights, and environmental responsibility.

  • Quality control procedures: Manufacturers must have strict quality control procedures in place to ensure the consistency and purity of their products. This includes regular testing of ingredients and finished products for contaminants and impurities.

  • Packaging and waste minimization: Manufacturers must take steps to minimize waste and reduce the environmental impact of their packaging. This includes using recyclable or biodegradable materials.

For a product to be certified by Ecocert, manufacturers must undergo an audit that includes an evaluation of their ingredients, manufacturing processes, and quality control procedures. They must also comply with ongoing requirements for sustainability and social responsibility to maintain their certification.


Double-check the link for more information: https://www.ecocert.com/en/home


EWG


The Environmental Working Group (EWG) is a non-profit organization that provides ratings and rankings of personal care products based on their ingredients and safety. They are known for their research and analysis of various consumer products, including cosmetics, food, and cleaning products.


In the context of cosmetics, EWG maintains a database called the Skin Deep® Cosmetics Database, which provides safety ratings for thousands of cosmetic and personal care products. The ratings are based on an analysis of the ingredients in the products and their potential health risks. Products are given a score from 1 to 10, with 1 being the safest and 10 being the most potentially hazardous.

EWG's ratings are based on a set of criteria that takes into account the potential health effects of the ingredients in a product. The criteria include factors such as:

  • Toxicity: EWG evaluates the potential toxicity of individual ingredients based on available scientific research.

  • Regulatory status: EWG considers whether an ingredient is banned or restricted by regulatory agencies such as the FDA or the European Union.

  • Contamination: EWG evaluates whether ingredients in a product are likely to be contaminated with other harmful substances.

  • Bioaccumulation: EWG considers whether the ingredients in a product are likely to accumulate in the body over time.

  • Environmental impact: EWG evaluates the potential environmental impact of the ingredients in a product, including their biodegradability and potential for water pollution.

While the Skin Deep® Cosmetics Database can be a useful tool for consumers who are interested in evaluating the safety of their cosmetics, it's important to note that EWG's ratings are not universally accepted. Some critics argue that the ratings are overly simplistic and do not take into account the complex ways in which ingredients interact in a product or the fact that the levels of exposure to individual ingredients in cosmetics may be relatively low. Nevertheless, many consumers and advocacy groups continue to use EWG's ratings as a way to make more informed decisions about the products they use.


Double-check the link for more information: https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/


There are various standards for active ingredients in cosmetics such as HALAL, EU Cosmetic Regulation, FGA GRAS List, ISO, and others. Each of these standards has specific requirements that ensure the safety and efficacy of cosmetics ingredients.

  • EU Cosmetic Regulation: The European Union's Cosmetic Product Regulation requires that all cosmetic ingredients be safe for use and must be listed on product labels.

Double-check the link for more information:

  • FDA GRAS List: The US FDA's Generally Recognized as Safe list identifies ingredients that are considered safe for use in cosmetics.

Double-check the link for more information:

  • ISO Standards: The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) provides standards for testing the safety, efficacy, and stability of cosmetic ingredients.

Double-check the link for more information: https://www.iso.org/standards.html


Standards for active ingredients play a crucial role in ensuring the safety, effectiveness, and sustainability of cosmetic products. By adhering to these standards, cosmetic manufacturers can provide consumers with products that are free from harmful chemicals and that meet high standards for environmental sustainability. When choosing cosmetic products, consumers can look for certifications such as COSMOS, ECOCERT, and EWG ratings to ensure that the products they use are safe and effective.


Chloe.

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